A Topic of Much Debate: Machine Stitched vs Hand Stitched Bogu
In part two of this Bogu Buying Guide I will take a look at the different methods used to sew the Futon of the Kendogu.
For many the idea of owning a set of hand-stitched bogu is the ultimate dream, but does a bogu set being hand stitched really mean that it is the best choice?
Not necessarily. Lets take a look at some of the differences between the two types. The difference is very simple.
- Machine stitched bogu features a futon which is stitched using a sewing machine.
- The futon on hand stiched bogu is stitched... by hand.
Ok so that's pretty simple. Like really. So what else is different?
Note: Machine/Hand Stitched in this article refers to the futon or padded cushion of the Bogu found in the Men, Kote and Tare. Please don't confuse it with "hand made". Most bogu sets do require assembly by hand at some stage, but in this article I am talking about the stitching on the futon only
Note: Machine/Hand Stitched in this article refers to the futon or padded cushion of the Bogu found in the Men, Kote and Tare. Please don't confuse it with "hand made". Most bogu sets do require assembly by hand at some stage, but in this article I am talking about the stitching on the futon only
Stitch Width
Stitch width refers to the distance between rows of stitches on the futon.
Hand stitched bogu is made using a unit of traditional Japanese measurement called Bu. This is approx 3mm in length. Hand stitched sets are sold in a variety of stitch widths such as 1-bu, 1.2-bu, 1.5-bu, 2-bu etc. with 1-bu being the tightest.
Machine stitched sets are sold in sizes measured in millimeters. Typical widths are 2 mm, 3 mm, 4 mm etc up to around 10 mm.
Production Time
As I said above, hand stitched bogu is made, by hand. Every stitch is accurately made using a needle and thread. It is an extremely labour intensive and time consuming process and requires a lot of skill.
Machine stitched sets on the other hand can be produced much quicker than hand made equipment. Using a sewing machine a skilled worker can complete multiple futon in the same time required to make just one by hand.
Cost
Generally speaking hand stitched bogu costs more than machine stitched. It takes more time and effort to produce, and may even require a person with more skill to make it. For this reason, labour costs are higher.
If we take two futon made from the same materials, the machine stitched will likely be cheaper to produce and thus cheaper to purchase.
Appearance
- The stitching on hand stitched bogu sets is usually only visible from the reverse. Only a very small pinpoint of thread is visible on the outside of the bogu. The futon is distinctively marked with a crisscross pattern which the sewer uses as a guideline.
 |
Example of Tezashi (hand stitched) Kote from Tozando. Note the pinpoint of thread and square pattern.
|
- Machine stitched on the other hand has the stitches visible on both sides.
 |
| Example of regular machine stitched futon. Note the thread being more visible on the outside of the futon. Photo : Aoi Budogu FD-4mm Men |
Of course many bogu shops are now making sets with pitch stitching, as well as square stitching to resemble hand made bogu.
- Pitch stitching has a longer space between where the thread enters and exits the futon. It makes the futon more flexible and slightly more padded than regular machine stitching.
 |
| Example of a Pitch stitched bogu set. The stitches pierce the futon at longer intervals, making the futon more flexible. Photo: All Japan Pitch Viper Bogu Set |
- Square stitched bogu is being marketed by a few places at the moment. The futon is machine stitched along the length and width of the fabric, creating a square pattern that looks rather like hand stitched bogu. Its claimed that this type of stitching adds more flexibility in different directions.
 |
| Example of square stitching "Cross-Pitch"from All Japan Budogu Photo : All Japan Pitch Assassin Bogu Set |
Probably the most important thing for many is the appearance of their bogu. With hand stitched sets offering that traditional look and feel, it is hard to deny its appeal!
So which is better?
Difficult to give a definitive answer!
This can be a difficult topic to speak about. Is machine stitched less durable because it is made quicker and in more volume? Is hand stitched the best quality available?
This can be a difficult topic to speak about. Is machine stitched less durable because it is made quicker and in more volume? Is hand stitched the best quality available?
I honestly think that a lot comes down to the retailer and manufacturer. Realistically, no one is going to sell you a poorly made set of bogu.
However, some retailers are more concerned with offering higher end sets, while others offer a more basic range. This in no way means the basic bogu is of poor quality, it is simply more afforable due to the materials used.
This brings me to what I think is more important than nit picking over which is better.
However, some retailers are more concerned with offering higher end sets, while others offer a more basic range. This in no way means the basic bogu is of poor quality, it is simply more afforable due to the materials used.
This brings me to what I think is more important than nit picking over which is better.
Materials and Budget
Materials
Apart from budget, this to me is more important than trying to decide between which stitching method is better.
(I don't want to go into too much detail, as I plan on writing a separate post about the different materials used.)
These days, most of the big brands are making machine stitched sets using top quality materials and better sewing methods than even only 10 years ago. To someone on a budget the idea of paying much less for a machine stitched set made using the exact same materials as a hand stitched one, is far more appealing.
In my opinion (and unless money is no object) you would be much better off investing in a similarly priced set of machine stitched bogu which uses higher quality materials.
Some people may still be swayed by the term hand stitched, but machine stitching methods seem to have improved and companies like Zen Nippon Budogu (AJB to us English speakers) are constantly innovating new methods and techniques to bring machine stitched sets ever closer in quality to top of the range hand stitched sets.
Budget
Choosing between machine or hand stitched can sometimes be made for you, by your budget. If you are looking for a cheap set of bogu, say under €500 then you are most likely limited to machine stitched sets.
If your budget is starting to get over €1000 then you can begin to start making comparisons between different stitching options. weighing up whether it is better to sacrifice materials used for the look and feel of hand stitched bogu.
To that effect, some places offer "cheap" hand stitched bogu sets. Personally, having seen what is available in the market in Japan, I would not invest in a set of hand stitched equipment that is costing less than €1000.
There is no way you are getting quality materials in this bogu set especially if they are advertising it as genuine deer leather. A corner has been cut somewhere, and labour costs have been reduced by using lesser quality fabrics and leathers.
I believe that a budget of €2000 and up would get you an exceptional (and I mean top of the range) set of machine stitched bogu. For this price you will get in at lower end of what could be considered upper quality hand stitched equipment.
There is a reason that the top tier of machine stitched sets reach €2500 - €3000~, while top level hand stitched sets can run up to nearly €10000 and more.
Conclusion
To conclude, it is my personal opinion that the quality of machine stitched sets has improved so much in recent years, that depending on your budget it may be a better investment to go for a top of the line machine made set over a handmade set using lesser materials.
It is still a goal of mine to own a beautiful set of hand stitched bogu, but until I can afford to drop a significant wad of cash on one, I'll be sticking to machine made for the foreseeable future!
It is still a goal of mine to own a beautiful set of hand stitched bogu, but until I can afford to drop a significant wad of cash on one, I'll be sticking to machine made for the foreseeable future!
Thanks as always for reading, and thank you to the bogu makers for providing us with so many great options and hours of entertaining eye candy!
I plan on covering the different materials used in a separate post and will update the blog soon.
Written by John Doherty
.jpg)
